La Trochita

Or known outside of Argentina as The Old Patagonian Express, from Paul Theroux’s 1979 book of the same name. In fact JP’s train ticket (No. 01312), sitting on the table before me, does… Continue reading →

Gokarna

Before our 12-hour train ride from Kochin to Gokarna, we dived into the Jayalakshmi silk emporium in Ernakulam to find some more sarees for JP’s mum. Hundreds of smiley, orange saree-clad shop girls… Continue reading →

Kerala

A pandemonium of car horns, berserk drivers, HEAT…in capitals as words to describe it fail me … snapped us out of our beachy Goan haze and swept us through Ernakulam’s fumey traffic from… Continue reading →